Once the fencing is up, use 2x4 or 1圆 boards to create your frame, screwing the boards horizontally into your posts along the bottom, middle and top of the fencing for added stability, and sandwiching the fencing in between the posts and framing for extra security. Be sure to attach the fencing tightly to the posts! Your run will need to be covered on top as well to prevent climbing predators like fox and raccoon, as well as aerial predators including hawks, eagles, and owls. That will prevent digging predators like coyote and dogs from gaining access under the fencing. Be sure to dig a trench around the perimeter of your run and sink the fencing down a few inches. Using u-shaped nails (staples) and a hammer, attach the fencing to the fence posts. (If you have bears or other large predators in your area, you might instead consider using a chain link dog run for your chickens and then just wrap the chain link with the smaller gauge welded wire to keep the smaller predators out as well.) Attach fencing to the posts with construction staples. That will keep out predators including small ones such as weasels and larger ones like bobcats. Use a 1/2” or 1” gauge fencing to keep out small and large predators alike.įor a predator-proof pen, you will need to use either 1/2” or 1” welded wire fencing. Setting the wooden posts in concrete will keep them in place. Use a level to be sure they are all set in straight, and a measuring tape to be sure they are set equidistant from each other-6 or 8 feet apart is a good distance. Once your posts are set, cut the tops to level them and then screw boards across the top for added stability before you attach your fencing. Sinking them in concrete will ensure that they stay put.
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The first step in building your run is to dig holes for your fence posts.
Chicken predators full#
In colder climates, positioning your run in full sun is a good idea, as the chickens will be able to warm up in the sun all day.īuilding a Chicken Run Supplies You Will Need In warmer climates, consider either building your pen under some trees (or adding some trees after your pen is built). They will need access to the coop to lay their eggs, and might choose to spend time in the coop on cold or rainy days.
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Your run should be attached to your coop, with a little door on the side of the coop that will allow the chickens to come and go during the day. And don’t forget to build big-in anticipation of your flock possibly growing as the years pass! In general, the more space you can allow your chickens, the better.
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But before you sketch out your plan and assemble your supplies, try laying out some boards on the ground to get an idea of just how big (or small!) the area is and adjust accordingly. So that means if you have ten chickens, you should plan on a pen that’s at least 10x10, or 100 square feet. The rule of thumb is to allow a minimum of ten square feet of outdoor pen space per chicken. The size of the run you will need to build depends on the size of your flock. It isn’t difficult to build a chicken run or pen, but it is critical to not only keep your chickens safe from predators, but also to keep your lawn, garden and landscaping safe from your chickens, who take great delight in digging up small plants, munching on leaves and scratching through mulch! A safe pen will also ensure that your chickens don’t wander into the road or into a neighbor’s garden or onto their front porch.